So much has been said about Paris. Movies, books, poems, plays, all varieties of artistic expression, have been employed to capture the magic of this eternal city. While these testaments pay well-deserved homage, Paris must be experienced firsthand to truly appreciate the depth and breadth of its fascination. I first visited Paris in 1979, and although I have seen many great cities since that time, Paris remains my favourite, bar none – which is saying something! Permit me to share some of my personal tips for enjoying this magnificent city, starting with where to rest ones’ head.
Shelter
Paris offers a plethora of options from 5-star luxury hotels to quaint short-term apartment rentals. When making your choice of where to stay, there are several important variables to consider, first and foremost, of which is location, but there is also the space, price, and amenities. Here are a few I can personally recommend.
The Hyatt Regency Paris Etoile (3 Pl. du Général Kœnig), is a modern, comfortable hotel with an amazing view of the Eiffel Tower and just a kilometer away from the Arc de Triomphe. What it lacks in old world charm it makes up for with the size of rooms. A good option for families because you can get a room with two double beds.
25Hours Hotel (12 Bd de Denain), is a fantastic hotel with a relaxed bar and a restaurant for both breakfast and dinner. Good sized rooms are available upon request. Its location, across the street from the Gare de Nord, is in an interesting neighbourhood with lots of restaurants and bars. A big plus of this spot is the direct metro connection to Charles de Gaulle airport. It’s also just a 20-minute walk to Place de la Bastille (the famous square where the Bastille prison once stood) and Line 1 on the metro which services most of the important attractions. Tip: check out the Au Bardoudeur Restaurant (left as you exit the hotel), a classic bistro with grouchy waiters – we really enjoyed their seafood platter.
CitizenM Champs-Elysees (128 Rue La Boétie) is a self-described, boutique luxury hotel. Its great location (right on the metro), roof top patio with view of the Eiffel Tower, and terrific breakfasts makes it a great choice for visitors. The rooms are small but the vibe is fun.
Hotel Sentier (2, place du Caire) located in the Sentier district (known for its shopping, bars, and restaurants) offers bright spacious rooms and is perfect for longer stays. The hotel has a few rooms with private landscaped terraces with great views. It’s a bit on the pricey side but the location will definitely add value to your stay. Run by a couple who started out as restauranteurs, the hotel’s bistro is a favourite with the locals.
Hotel 15 Montparnasse (153 Rue de Vaugirard), has been recently renovated and is situated in a residential area on the left bank. It has good metro and bus connections and is close to the Luxembourg Garden, Champs de Mars, André-Citroën Park, the Paris Observatory, the Salon of Exposition at Porte de Versailles, the Rodin Museum and Montparnasse Tower. The staff are lovely, and the rooms are comfortable and reasonably priced, although somewhat on the smaller size.
Hotel Monge (55 Rue Monge), has an excellent location in the Latin Quarter. I like to stay in this area because of the great jazz bars and the proximity of my favourite market on Rue Mouffetard. Rooms come in a variety of sizes. The staff are very friendly.
If you have a favourite accommodation in Paris, drop me a line and tell me about it. I’m always on the look-out for new and unique places to stay.
Food & Drink
Having considered some of our options for Paris accommodations, it’s time to move on to the pleasure and practicalities of daily sustenance. Needless to say, Paris offers a cornucopia of fabulous eateries. The options can seem almost overwhelming. I always have the Michelin App on my phone to check if there is a recommended restaurant nearby. This App not only features the starred restaurants but it also includes up and coming suggestions that are much less expensive that offer interesting dishes and unique wine lists at affordable prices.
Start your day with a coffee and pastry at any of the numerous patisseries lining the streets. I needn’t recommend any one in particular because they’re all fabulous. Later, take a break from your sight-seeing and shopping by stopping for a coffee, beer or glass of wine and a snack at Lutetia on Ile Saint-Louis (33 Quai de Bourbon).
P’tit Bougnate (85 BL de La Magenta), a small café offering classic French dishes such as steaks frites and onion soup is a great choice for a light lunch or dinner. Forquet’s on the Champs Elysees (99 Av. De Champs Elysees), is an amazing bistro – a little on the expensive side but a great place to people watch. Another excellent alternative is Eclipses by Cyril Choisne, not far from the Musée D’Orsay (27 Rue de Beaune). I found their approach to be very interesting, with continuous changes to the menu. I particularly loved his mussel and edamame salad.
I would be amiss if I didn’t mention Bofinger, (5-7 Rue de la Bastille), the oldest brassiere in Paris. There are many well-priced restaurants with amazing food in the Montorgueil neighbourhood and my favourite is Café Compagnon (22-26 Rue Léopold Bellan).
No trip to Paris would be complete without a visit to the Eiffel Tower. Unfortunately, the famous Restaurant le Jules Verne is currently closed (it may be open again in time for the Olympics), however Madame Brasserie, also located in the tower, is open and offers an excellent experience at a more reasonable price. It is run by Thierry Marx, an excellent 3-star Michelin chef I have worked with in Bordeaux for cooking classes. Lunch is about 80 Euros per person including drinks. I can attest that it’s worth every penny - a life experience for the family. Make sure to plan for your visit in advance - reservations are a must.
My best Michelin 3-star experiences in Paris were at L’ Atelier de Joel Robuchon (there are two locations: 133 Av. des Champs-Élysées, and Hôtel du Pont Royal, 5 Rue de Montalembert), and Frenchie (5 Rue du Nil). Frenchie also has a bistro, Frenchie Bar a Vins (6 Rue de Nil), right across the street, which is fantastic but doesn’t take reservations.
There are numerous great restaurants in the Montorgueil neighbourhood of the Sentier District – a very happening place and the location of one of my favourite hotels, the Sentier Hotel.
Doubtless, wherever you find yourself in Paris, you’ll be able to avail yourself of great food experience. If you have the opportunity to try one mentioned here, or some other noteworthy option, be sure to drop me a line and let me know about your experience.
In the next section, I will offer some tips on things to do and see in the City of Light.
Moving To and Fro
Be sure to pack at least one pair of comfortable walking shoes. Paris is a big city but many of the sites and attractions are within reasonable walking distance from each other. And the slower pace inherent in walking enhances the experience as so much more detail is revealed in the architecture and shop windows, etc. Some of the must-visit locations demand a fair amount of walking in and of themselves, such as the Louvre. In those instances, one might consider a taxi or uber to the location, knowing that there may be hours of walking once in place.
I highly recommend taking one of the many free walking tours offered in Paris. You can choose from a wide variety ranging from historic to foodie to street art. Information on times and topics is readily available online. The suggested “donation” to the guide is 10 to 20 Euros.
Arranging a bike tour or making use of the Velib, urban bike sharing program, is another great “slow travel” way to get familiar with the city’s districts and neighbourhoods. You can find out all you need to know about the bike service at http://secretsofparis.com/practical/using-the-velib-bike-service-in-paris/amp/. Both electric and regular bikes are available.
If you’re looking to take an excursion further afield, the Gare de Nord train station has amazing connections to many destinations. For example, the Eurostar has multiple daily departures to London or Amsterdam. The Gare de l’est is a short taxi ride from the Gare de Nord and provides the connection to Champagne Country (Reims) in 45 mins.
We find boat cruises an excellent way to recover from jetlag and still enjoy the city. Relax, eat, drink and sightsee all at the same time. There are many companies offering tours but two we rate highly are Yacht de Paris and Le Capitaine Fracasse. The food and service provided by both are worth the price.
Places to Go
The list of must-sees for first-time visitors to Paris is weighty: the Eiffel Tower, Louvre, Arc de Triomphe, Cathédrale Notre-Dame, museums too numerous to mention. Like everyone, we have visited many with Musée Rodin and Musée D’Orsay being favourites. Unless you possess unlimited time and money, it would be unrealistic and unwise to attempt to see all or even many on a single visit. I recommend taking a planned and balanced approach. Create an A-list of sites and attractions you’d like to take in, but leave time for exploration without agenda or specific destination. You’ll find endless reasons for planning your next visit, and the one after that. My personal hit list of top museums I have yet to visit includes; Foundation Cartier, Palais De Tokyo and Musée Marmottan Monet.
Advanced planning is crucial for optimizing your experience. Save time and disappointment by purchasing entrance tickets in advance whenever possible. Even nightlife adventures such as jazz clubs may require reservations. Others will operate on a first-come, first-served basis. Depending on the time of year and major events (such as the Olympics), it’s a good idea to do your homework on hours of operation and popularity to improve your chances of getting in or getting a good seat.
Paris is a shopper-lover’s paradise. From haute couture to vintage and thrift shops, clothes shopping is unparalleled. I recommend avoiding the chains available in every major urban center and focusing on the uniquely Paris options. For the department store experience try Samaritaine, newly reopened and completely renovated. The history of the store makes for an interesting read (https://dfs.com/en/samaritaine/mobile/about-store/history).
I like to pick up table linens and tea towels at Simrane (23/25 Rue Bonaparte). And sunglasses at Jimmy Fairly (there are a few locations in Paris). Of course, you can drop into Chanel, Louis Vuitton or any number of haute couture houses but for uniqueness and fair pricing check Pierre Boisset for belts and handbags. To shop up and coming Paris fashion try Rue Vielle du Temple and nearby, the shop Miki Mialy (12 Rue Froissart). My young fashionista friend who shared some of the above addresses also recommends Rue de Marseille and Rue Yves Toudec, near Canal Saint Martin.
For one stop shopping of French olive oil, canned fois gras, fleur se sel and my all-time favourite French spice, Piment d’Espelette, visit Paris’ oldest department store “Le Bon Marche”. But for much better prices and a leisurely stroll check out the small food and wine shops along Rue Montorgueil. Nearby Rue de Nil (the home of one of my favourite restaurants Frenchie) where the once empty street has shops devoted to cheese, meat, seafood, coffee, bread and pastries. And if the shopping makes you hungry you can have a quick take-out meal at Frenchie’s fast-food offering.
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